That is how our demo repair for a glued 6.1-inch phone starts, and it will not play until you have ticked those lines. It has 16 steps, takes about 50 minutes, rates 3 of 5 for difficulty and uses seven tools: a pentalobe P2 driver, a Phillips #000 driver, a heat pad or hair dryer, a suction cup, opening picks, a spudger and tweezers.
What keeps it safe:
- A drained cell. A full lithium cell nicked by a pick burns hot and fast; a quarter-full one smokes. Run it below 25 percent, then power off fully, not sleep.
- Gentle heat. About two minutes on the bottom third of the glass: hot to the touch, not too hot to hold.
- Shallow picks. Never deeper than 3 mm along the right edge, where the display cables run.
- Battery first. Its connector comes off before the display connectors and goes back on last.
- The right screw in the right hole. Four 1.2 mm screws and one 1.6 mm look alike. The long one goes in the display bracket's front hole only; a long screw in a short hole is the most common way a phone dies on the bench.
- No metal under the battery. Pull the adhesive strips low and slow, and lever the old battery at its bottom edge only, never under the middle. If it bends, stop, put it on concrete outside and let it cool.
When is it due? A battery health page reading under 80 percent, or a warning there, means the cell is due. A screen or back that sits proud means it is swelling: stop using the phone and get the battery swapped the same week.
Our demo is a generic phone, not a particular model. Screw types, counts and the order can differ on yours, so check the maker's repair manual if it publishes one.